Gold Prospecting

Treasure Hunting

Buying Your First Metal Detector

Welcome to the most exciting and profitable hobby in the world – Gold Prospecting!

In this day and age of electronics, gold prospecting (now termed Electronic Prospecting) has now taken a new turn for the better, and perhaps a little easier, than the old diggers had it over 130 years ago.

It must remembered that you will be using a metal detector. There is no such thing as a "gold detector" and as that name could imply, it would just locate gold only and no other metal – I am still waiting for that day!

As the name implies, a metal detector will locate all types of metal whether they be natural metals like: gold, silver, copper and platinum or man-made metals like: iron, aluminium, brass, alloyed precious and non-precious metals. A metal detector will give a better response on gold if it contains a higher percentage of copper, than gold if associated with silver.

This article has been prepared for those contemplating the purchase of their first metal detector.

Times have changed rapidly in the past few years with the introduction of detectors with computer / microprocessor automatic ground balancing makes them easier to use. There are still detectors being manufactured with manual ground balance that can have advantages in some situations.

To those people who are buying their first detector, we find there are many questions that are asked in relation to gold prospecting, so I hope that this information from many years of experience will prove useful to you.

Firstly, you must decide how much gold prospecting you will be doing and how serious you are going to be. There is another factor of course, and that depends on how much you are willing to spend! If you are going around Australia (particularly if you intend visiting Western Australia and Victoria) and you have plenty of time, I suggest that you consider the Minelab range of ‘GP / SD’ (Super Detectors) but expect to pay between $3000 to around $6000. Depending on which unit you choose, it could either have manual or automatic ground cancelling. These units can come with a variety of search coils and depending which search coil you use, digging up to around 5 to 6 feet deep or more is not uncommon for large targets. However, if you use a smaller sized search coil you will find very small nuggets (less than ¼ gram) just under the surface. Further details regarding depth on detectors will be explained shortly. These detectors operate better in areas of high mineralization and that’s where the best gold can still be found.

If you just want to go gold prospecting ‘on and off’ a little less seriously, but by the same token using a good, but slightly less expensive detector, I suggest the Minelab ‘Eureka Gold’ which has been proven to be the best unit in Australia. It has automatic ground cancelling (adjusting itself to the ground conditions as you search) and has three (3) variable operating frequencies. For those who are technically minded, the unit operates on 6.4, 20 and 60 kHz. What that means is: When the detector is switched into the 6.4 kHz mode, it will detect larger objects (pea size upward) at a greater depth and medium sized targets in the 20 kHz and finally the 60 kHz mode, whereas it becomes more sensitive to tiny nuggets, but less sensitive on larger targets. The detector is also fitted with a variable discrimination control, which could come in handy in some situations.

However, should you wish to incorporate some form of treasure hunting with prospecting, the best all-round units would be either the Bounty Hunter ‘Land Star’ or the new model called the ‘Sharp Shooter II’.     The ‘Land Star’ has an All Metal mode with manual ground cancelling plus automatic retuning for automatic ground balance and a discriminator (both tone and notch) to identify various targets with 3 different tones. The ‘Sharp Shooter II’ has automatic ground balance as well as a discriminator. These would possibly be the most popular and best units to consider as an ‘all-rounder’. If you are prospecting with either model, it is suggested that the optional 4" Gold Nugget coil be used for nuggets less than 1 gram in weight. All coils on this detector are fully waterproof, so you could use it for beachcombing too. These units come with a 5 Year limited warranty.

Some of our customers have even found gold nuggets with the ever popular Bounty Hunter 'Tracker IV' metal detector!

Also available, is the Minelab ‘Musketeer Advantage’ detector, which can also be used for basic gold prospecting as well as coin and treasure hunting. This unit has manual ground balance and a variable discriminator having a single tone. Warranty: 2 years on control box & 1 year on the coil.

If you intend prospecting in areas noted for small gold only, please consider buying either the White’s ‘Goldmaster’ Series 3 or 4 metal detector, operating from around 50 kHz … or a Fisher Gold Bug 2 metal detector which operates at a higher frequency again. As you can see, these detectors operate at higher frequencies and are very successful locating gold from about the size of a large pinhead upwards.

The best mode to use for gold prospecting is of course, the "All Metal" mode, which, as it says, will locate all kinds of metal whether it be: gold, iron junk or other non-ferrous metals.

One important factor must be raised at this point, it is a control that bears the word "Discrimination". It is possibly the most misunderstood control by the new prospector. If you are prospecting seriously, my advice (like all professional prospectors) is to dig every signal. Remember, gold in its natural state is not highly electromagnetically conductive. Depending on the size of gold nugget and what position you have set your discrimination level to, you can easily reject it.

Gold in small quantities can occur with other sulphides if in a reef situation, so it is not advisable to use any discrimination as you will reject the gold!

Some detectors specially designed for gold prospecting, could have a discriminator or an iron reject switch fitted, so again, please be careful how you use these controls as they are only effective to certain depths and again, you could lose your gold. Again, I repeat, the best motto is to "dig everything" as you can never be sure.

I guess that the most commonly asked question about metal detectors is: "How deep will it go?". The best answer would be to ask you a similar question and that is: "How deep do you want to dig?" That question relates to what I’ve just said about the different types of detectors and coils. It is impossible for me to give you any actual depth on targets with any detector, as it depends on numerous factors, so in order to answer that question in general terms, I will list out some of the factors that can determine depth.

1. It depends on the iron mineralization of the ground. Is it low, medium or heavy or even extremely mineralized ground?
2. Moisture content of the soil. Is the Ground dry, wet or damp? .... the damper the ground ... the better the response.
3. What time of the day you are detecting. This does make a difference .... it's a treasure hunter's and / or a prospectors secret.  Ask me sometime.
4. Salt content of the ground ... if working in salt pan areas.
5. Condition of your battery pack.
6. The operating frequency of your detector (If you use a high frequency detector you will easily locate small targets but with limited depth but if you use a lower frequency detector you will locate larger objects at a greater depth).
7. Size, shape and density of the target or gold nugget.
8. How is the target or gold nugget buried?  on edge? sideways? flat? on an angle? .... Would you know the answer to these questions before you dig it up?
9. Does the gold nugget contain more copper or silver?
10. How long the target has been buried in the ground. This mainly relates to man-made metals. For instance: A ferrous (or non-ferrous depending on its associated alloys) object that has been buried for a period of time will give a better (and deeper) response than if it is freshly buried. The salts and acids in the ground attack the metal and this corrosion is absorbed in the soil around the target (commonly known as a "halo effect") thus giving a better signal. However, it must be remembered that gold in its natural state is less electromagnetically conductive so the depth for a detector on gold would be less than a man-made metal.
11. The size of search coil being used.
12. Detector operator’s skill.
13. ...... and there are many others .....

Therefore to sum up, the "rule of thumb" in regard to depth is: The larger the search coil, the greater the depth on larger targets and nuggets, whereas: the smaller the coil, a lesser depth but greater sensitivity on smaller nuggets.

When gold prospecting, there is quite a range of equipment that can be used. There is no need to take an army of digging tools with you, as there will be enough to take without loading yourself up with any unnecessary "stuff". The main tool that you will need is a type of hoe pick – a point on one end and a flat blade on the other, a shovel, a plastic gold pan which you hang from your webbing belt and possibly a lightweight geological hammer and a pouch or bottle to put your gold in. Another useful item is a magnet to find those annoying small iron magnetic pieces of junk. We have available a small cheap magnet that you can glue to the top of your pick handle – it comes in real handy!

Other important items you should have is a good set of headphones and a spare battery pack. Murphy’s Law seems to bob up when you least expect it – just when you find a good gold patch – the batteries run out!

One of the best Australian books that should be read is ‘Gold Prospecting’ by Douglas Stone as he gives information in layman’s terms. Another way to familiarize yourself with rocks and what they look like is to purchase a good rocks and minerals book. There are many available from our large range (the biggest in Australia) of new and second-hand books.

The ‘Gold & Ghosts’ range of books written by David W. de Havelland provide valuable information on the old gold areas and include maps. At present there are 2 books written on Western Australia and 2 books for Queensland (Southern & Central districts and North / North-western districts). Unfortunately, these books are now not available as new books, but we do have good second-hand copies from time to time. Please enquire!

This is one of the most important points that you should consider. There are hundreds of good books available from our extensive range of books covering every aspect of geology, gold prospecting, metal detecting plus many geological and topographical maps as well as "out of print" geological reports.

If you prefer to do your own research, visit the Geology Department at your nearest university or alternatively your state Department of Mines library where you will find all the information available. However, be prepared to spend a lot of time poring over the old reports and maps. Most of these are not available for sale as a lot of them are now out of print, so the information will have to be photocopied at a charge. 

For those of you in Queensland, I have provided the address and telephone number to save you looking it up.

Department of Natural Resources and Mines,

Don’t forget to ask for the latest information on fossicking and regulations that they hand out free of charge. Queensland Fossicking Licences (Prices on application) are available from the Department or directly from us.

Good Luck!

© 2008

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Welcome again to another exciting and profitable hobby – Treasure Hunting!

Treasure Hunting is fast becoming one of the world’s most popular hobbies and relates to the searching for, and recovering of, an endless list of valuable items. This can be on land, on the beach or even under the water.

Probably the most important benefit derived for the treasure hunter is the health benefit of getting out of doors into the fresh air and sunshine away from the stress of work and day to day activities. Treasure hunting is relatively simple and can be quite profitable. The majority of people begin their hobby by coin hunting and this can lead to bigger and better things later on as you will learn in the course of reading this short article.

Another popular brand of detectors is the Minelab range, which include the ‘Musketeer Advantage’, priced at $580 to the ‘Sovereign GT’ priced at $1295. The ‘top-of-the-range’ treasure hunting model is the ‘Explorer SE’ or the latest 'Explorer SE Professional' both priced at $1825. All these models have optional sized coils as well as a range of accessories available. All Minelab metal detectors have a 2 year Warranty on the Control Box and a 1 Year Warranty on the search coil. Further details and special prices on these and other available models are available upon request.

The main accessories that you will need are: a good set of headphones, a coin trowel, a small spade and a sand scoop if you intend going to the beach.

This is one of the main important activities that the treasure hunter should engage in. It is not much point buying a metal detector if you don’t know where you are going to use it! For your first outing I suggest that you pick an area to search close to your home. Have a look at some of the early maps to glean some information of what your area looked like in times past. The ideal place to look for this information would be at your local library, council or historical society. These will show where the old houses, shops and other buildings used to (or may still) stand. Old railway stations, schools, scout and guide huts, churches, parks, racecourses, picnic spots, playgrounds and even the local swimming hole. Some of the historical publications that have been published by clubs, schools and churches of the area can provide some important information.

If you have access to a state historical library, some of which are located in the major towns or cities – these can be a ‘gold mine’ for this type of information. You can spend many months on a single subject but it can be worth it in the end.

In essence, anywhere that people have been, you could find treasure of some description. It could be in the form of lost coins, jewellery, personal items or even items that have been lost around the yard that could now be regarded as relics. So, if you own a house that would be around 40 years old or more, there would be a chance in finding pre-decimal coins. That’s a start! Try around where the clothesline is, if you don’t happen to find any coins there, just try and imagine where the clothesline could have been. In the earlier houses, prior to the 1960’s, washing in some cases was just strung up between two trees or posts. I have found literally dozens and dozens of coins, badges and even some jewellery at these places. Whilst we are talking of old houses, the owners sometimes stashed some of their money in jars and buried in either the front or backyard, generally in a location where they could keep their eye on it. They even buried it the back corner where the chook house used to be. By doing that, the "occupants" would really make a racket if someone came near them. The old flowerbeds are ‘hot spots’ and should be checked too. I have found the odd ring or two there, which must have been lost when gardening. Check under any large trees with large overhanging branches, coins fell out of pockets of children either climbing trees or jumping off ropes. People often buried their valuables using fence posts as markers, and the posts either disappeared or they could not be identified again, hence leaving their treasure buried to this day.

Pay particular attention to the pathway from the front door to where the letterbox was, or even out to the footpath – this is also a haven for lost coins. Remember, a lot of tradesmen including the milkman and baker used to travel along this route, and in their haste used to drop the odd coin or two. In the early days children (and that included me) had a habit of playing around near the down-pipe – old toys can be found here. As a treasure hunter myself, I just stop and think of the possibilities where else you can also find treasure. Inside the house is another spot – within built-in cupboards and drawers, near fireplaces, hidey-holes in walls – the list is endless!

As I have mentioned above, coin hunting is possibly one of the most enjoyable facets of treasure hunting. Countless millions of coins have been lost and await recovery by the metal detector hobbyist. It appears that people are losing more coins today than the treasure hunter is finding. Coins are lost everywhere people go and coins are being found everywhere people have been!

To give you an idea what has been found: When the Brisbane Airport was being extended, the town of Cribb Island (here in Brisbane) was completely demolished – shops, school, halls, houses – the lot! Under the laundry floor of one old house a hoard of 81 gold sovereigns were found valued at over $20,000. Another treasure hunter found a tin of old coins buried under a concrete path of a house being demolished. Yet another treasure hunter found hundreds of pre-decimal coins and 3 sovereigns on an old abandoned country racetrack not far from Brisbane. There have been also numerous other large finds reported around Australia over the past few years.

The best time for coin hunting is a couple of days after heavy rain when the ground is moist and targets become more conductive. A point of interest: How many Australian coins have been circulated? The answer: Well over 20 + billion! How many have been lost or buried? The mind boggles!

This can be a varied subject. Treasure Hunting relates to finding valuables, relics and artefacts. Some treasure hunters prefer to find old convict relics whilst others search bushranger hideouts, ghost towns, old mining towns and so forth. Many a time a cache (pronounced ‘cash’) of coins or even gold nuggets buried in an old steel matchbox tin have been found around the foundations of a fireplace of an old bush hut or other places within close proximity or even under the bush lemon tree out the back. Old rubbish dumps are a good place to find old relics, old bottles and even coins. These are generally found about 100 metres away.

In the early days, there were numerous old hotels and coaching stops – these are ideal places to search for lost treasure. Again, research plays an important part. If you travelling the outback keep your eye out for large sheep stations and shearing sheds – the main pastime for the workers was "two-up" – lots of coins can be found here.

As the name implies: Beachcombing is combing the beach with a metal detector. A wide variety of valuables can be found ranging from rings, jewellery, watches and coins. The best time for beachcombing is about 2 hours before and after low tide – this enables you to search the area where people generally swim. Search both the dry and wet sand areas. You will of course find more trash items in the dry sand but not all trash is junk!

One treasure hunter detecting on a Queensland Sunshine Coast beach dug up a cigarette packet inside a plastic bag, which also contained over $10,000 of cut opals. Another treasure hunter found a jar full of two shilling pieces in a sand dune on a Queensland Gold Coast beach, which must have been buried for over 40 years! Another lucky find for another person was a $2,500 diamond ring found on his first day out.

A bonanza for the beachcomber is when rough weather and or cyclones or even strong westerly winds chop away at the sand dunes and banks exposing hundreds of coins and valuables. It is very important to use headphones when detecting, so you can hear those deep signals whilst eliminating the noise from the surf. Be sure to use a sand scoop and a trowel to avoid any nasties! Before detecting the beach proper, make sure you search the walkways that lead to the beach as numerous coins and goodies are found here.

For those of you who can’t get to the beach, don’t overlook searching inland lakes and recreation areas – people lose valuables here too! In either location, make sure you check out some of the following areas: under jetties, near boat ramps, rocky outcrops, sunbaking areas, under shady trees, around dressing sheds and picnic areas – it is amazing what you will find!

However, beaches are great, there are a lot of them and a lot of sand too. You can’t expect to hit the right spot every time out. The almost unending number of locations and areas to search time and time again with a detector makes beachcombing, perhaps, the most interesting and profitable hobby around – provided you know your detector, have some patience, persistence and a little luck!

Now that you have read a little bit about the world of treasure hunting, when purchasing a metal detector from us ... please ask us for a FREE copy of my article "So you want to go treasure hunting" which covers what you need to know, where to go, and where treasure still can be found, including my "Hot Spots" list where to look! 

As a treasure hunter myself, I love the outdoors, researching history as well as metal detecting. I started out when I was 10 years old (that 48+ years ago) wandering along the old Roman roads in England looking for that lost roman coin! Through the years I have detected in many countries around the world as well as throughout Australia and have come up with the same conclusion – it doesn’t matter which detector you use, what brand, whatever – it’s a matter of knowing and learning your metal detector – practice + experience = SUCCESS!

To put a myth at rest: Comments made like metal detectors made in the U.S.A. or the U.K. are not suitable for Australian conditions are just not true. As mentioned, I have used most detectors in all conditions in many variable situations around the world – as long as you have a good quality metal detector you will do well – believe me!

For those of you who are unaware of the fact, we have been selling detectors for over 33 years, now being the longest supplier of metal detectors in Australia. As the sole Australasian Distributor for FIRST TEXAS BOUNTY HUNTER METAL DETECTORS we are proud to provide a range of affordable, top quality, computerized microprocessor detectors with a 5 Year Factory Limited Warranty – not overpriced like some brands on the market.

By having a metal detector like the ‘Bounty Hunter’ you are assured that you don’t have to pay top dollar for a top unit in the first instance, and should you decide to trade-in, upgrade or sell your detector, you won’t be losing heaps of dollars in the process! However, should you prefer any other brand or model of metal detector, we can help you there too! We are not biased, but offer you a choice, but the choice is yours. Remember, our competitive prices and service is hard to beat and we look forward to putting you on the road to successful treasure hunting, and should you have any queries, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Good hunting!

DAVID COOPER

© 2008

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To start, you’ll want to consider what you’d like to accomplish when detecting … what application would you be most interested in? Or, would you prefer to remain versatile with the metal detecting hobby? Ask yourself these questions before assessing the features you will need.

There are many applications for metal detecting including: relic hunting, cache hunting, coinshooting, jewellery hunting and beachcombing. Each one of these applications would predetermine what features you would be looking for in a potential detector. For instance, if you’re planning on coinshooting, you’ll want a detector with target ID / depth readout which will enhance your coinshooting capabilities. If you’re planning on relic hunting, you’ll want at the very least a non-motion all metals capability to delineate what you’re targeting.

As a stark beginner, you’ll want to start out on a turn-on-and-go type system that will not leave you frustrated with the hobby. Once you’ve tuned into the hobby with a basic system, you’ll have the competence to move on to more complicated systems and bypass the normal frustrations that are usually encountered when first starting out.

Make sure that you’re comfortable with both the warranty and the retailer where you’re purchasing your detector. When buying a detector, as is true with most anything, consider all facets of the purchase. It’s not only the unit that you’re purchasing, you’re also purchasing the service behind the unit or the personal instruction provided by the dealer … be sure to research your purchase … for starters, ask others who have used the same unit what their true opinions are and if their true opinions are and if they have had any problems with the difficulty in learning the detector.

The main points to consider:

Always read the fine print and make sure the length of the warranty covers both parts and service.

Difficulty in Operation:  

As a beginner, this should be one of your main concerns. Assess whether the detector is a turn-on-and-go system … or whether there is programming involved. At the very least, make sure the detector does have an auto mode … such as the Auto Notch available which is found on some of the Bounty Hunter models.

Considering the fact that as a detector user, you’ll have to haul around the equipment … and if you really get into the hobby, you’ll find yourself carrying the equipment for 8 to 10 hours straight. Carefully weigh in each detector you’d like ti purchase … a good weight balance also means that the detector has a easy centre of gravity … in that, it is not top or bottom heavy but balanced so that, as you swing your coil, it does not drag you down.

As is true with all products, reputation will always follow. Do your research through magazines, the Internet, other avid users, etc. In addition, remember that there are a lot of brand loyalists who may misinform you about other brands; if they’ve never used the detector, how can they formulate constructive opinions.

Be very careful when considering the purchase of a used unit … warranties are usually void, and you never know truly what you’re purchasing … how the detector was taken care of … whether it was properly stored … whether parts are still available … whether the electronics / features are obsolete … and on and on. Most likely, your best bet is to avoid purchasing an older, used detector. Additionally, many times, you can find a newer unit for the same price and have a new warranty and factory support to go along with it.

Remember, the most important aspect of purchasing your first detector: does it fill your needs? Others’ opinions, expert or otherwise, are irrelevant to the fact that you yourself will be using the detector … and, your opinion is the most important consideration.

Once you’ve settled on your detector of choice, GET OUT AND HAVE FUN !!! Approach the hobby with that sense of adventure you had in your childhood years. Don’t take the hobby so seriously that you lose that enchantment! Treasure finding is an art form, and every target has its promise. What entrances me the most is the excitement of not knowing what will come out of the ground next …

Keep your coil to the soil … Mickey

Mickey Cochran © 1999

Originally published in "Lost Treasure", January 1999

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